Eggplant Caponata

It's August, and that means those of us who garden are past the point of reaping what we sow and into "Good God, what do I do with all this stuff?" mode. One word: Can. Learn it, do it, live it. It's not hard, it's not dangerous if you follow the rules and use common sense, and it's no more time consuming than piling all your newly harvested veggies into a grocery bag, tossing them in the car, and driving them across town to your boss's mother's brother-in-law's house. Trust me, you're not getting that raise anyway.

Flash forward to the World Series. Your favorite team is playing and your best friend has invited you over for a big "Go Red Sox" bash. All of your friends and family will be there. He says, "Just bring whatever you want." (Let's assume the beer is taken care of for a moment). What do you do? You can stop at the grocery store and pick up some chips and dip, which everyone will surely eat but no one will comment on, or you can buy (or bake) a beautiful loaf of French or Italian style rustic bread, and reach into the pantry for a jar of your very own, garden fresh, Eggplant Caponata. You are guaranteed to be spending the second half copying the recipe, so think ahead and bring the link to this blog, or you might miss the David Ortiz walk-off homer in the ninth. :).

Of course, you don't have to can this to make it. Just store it the fridge as you would an open jar of relish and use it within a week.

Caponata

6 Red Bell Peppers, cut into 3/4-inch squares.
3 large Eggplants, skin on, diced into 3/4-inch cubes.
1 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 cup White Wine Vinegar
1/2 cup Sugar
1 cup diced Yellow Onion
1 cup chopped Celery
1 cup Golden Raisins
6 Anchovies, rinsed and blotted dry
1 cup (loosely packed) fresh Basil Leaves
salt and pepper to taste.

Fry the eggplant and peppers in the olive oil for 5 minutes until the eggplant is crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. In a separate saucepan, heat the vinegar, sugar, onion, celery, raisins and anchovies until boiling, and simmer until the veggies are soft. Combine with the pepper and eggplant mixture and the basil, and either can or refrigerate until needed.

This is great on crostini, or as a topping for grilled Fish, such as swordfish or tuna. Add some capers and tomatoes and smother sauteed red snapper, codfish or haddock with it. Also great on grilled or sauteed chicken breasts, pork chops, or tossed with shrimp and pasta.

Until next time,

"I love you like a fat kid loves cake."
--Anonymous.

Canning Hot Italian Peppers

A Word on Canning

A lot of people are reluctant to undertake preserving the bounty of their gardens, whether of all the perceived work it entails or the possibilities of creating some new form of bacterial life hell-bent on penning them up in the bathroom for days on end. It seems they would rather give away bagfuls of cucumbers and zucchini to neighbors they ignore the rest of the year than to go through the trouble of learning this simple, ages-old technique. These are the same people who toil all summer long, weeding, feeding, watering and nurturing their gardens, only to have to go out and spend three bucks on a jar of pickles or relish, or stock up on canned tomatoes when they go on sale at the grocery store because the idea of canning either never crossed their minds, or was too daunting to undertake. Sadly, for the price of a little extra work, and some research and planning, they could have filled their pantries with fresh garden tomatoes, had their own, homemade relish to impress their guests with, and saved a few bucks on groceries while they were at it.

Those of us in the know realize that canning is neither difficult nor dangerous, as long as you plan ahead, use the proper equipment, and follow a few simple common sense sanitation rules. There are quite a few sites online that do a great job explaining the process, so I won't go into detail here. I suggest you check out four or five sites, mainly so you get a good feel for what different people are doing, and just in case you happen across a site giving bad information the first time you set out. By reading multiple sites, you'll more easily be able to pick up on it when someone suggests something risky or idiotic. Until you're comfortable with the process, I would suggest you avoid any recipes that require "fermentation," like sauerkraut or kimchee.

I will no doubt get more into canning later in the season. It's a bit early right now, but with record temperatures and a very mild spring here in the northeast, gardens are thriving, and my hot peppers are already nearing full size. And I'm not the only one. The idea for this blog came from Carlo, who asked me for this recipe at his granddaughter's (my Niece) softball game last week. Now if someone would just show him how to use a computer...

Canned Italian Hot Peppers

• 2 c. white vinegar
• 4 c. water
• 1 c. sugar
• Long Italian Hot Peppers (or Cherry Peppers, or Jalapeno Peppers)
• Garlic cloves
• Salt
• Dry or Fresh Oregano
• Olive oil

Wash peppers and remove tops. Cut long hot peppers into 1-inch rings. Combine vinegar, water, and sugar; bring to a boil and keep boiling. Pack peppers into clean, hot quart jars. To each quart add 1 clove of garlic, Oregano to taste, 1 teaspoon olive oil. Pour boiling syrup over peppers, leave ¼-inch head space. Seal the jars and process for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath.

Until next time, I leave you with the immortal words of Alfred E. Newman, who once pointed out, "We are living in a world today where lemonade is made from artificial flavors and furniture polish is made from real lemons."

Truly good fodder for further contemplation.

Baby Artichokes

I wasn’t sure what topic I wanted to kick off my blog with, I only knew that, being from New England, I wanted to stay as seasonal as I could, without immediately alienating those who make their homes in other climates. So after weeks of hemming and hawing, I happened upon an old friend who came to a Caribbean-themed grill and pool party I hosted in honor of my sister (there you go Tami, I mentioned you), and in true Col fashion, she came to the rescue. She asked me what to do with artichokes.

I love artichokes.

So here is my blog on what to do with Baby Artichokes. I’m going to start with two simple techniques for prepping baby artichokes for use in recipes, and then give you a few of my favorites recipes to use them with.

But first, Choosing baby artichokes.

Baby artichokes, at least where I shop, come in packages of nine. They are smaller (of course) than the adult variety, and easier to clean because their "choke" isn't fully developed yet, and is still tender enough to be digested. You can use adult artichokes for any of these recipes, just be sure to scoop out all of the "fuzz" that grows in its center. You'll also want to allow for a longer cooking time (and maybe even cut them in half before you poach them), and cut them in quarters for some of the recipes.

If you shop on Saturday, you might consider doing the prep on Sunday, so the chokes will be ready for whatever application you desire during the week, when you might be too busy to find the time. It can be a bit time consuming at first, but once you get the hang of them, they'll go fast. And they're worth it. If you've only ever had them from a can, or even frozen, I urge you to give them a try.

Prepping Baby Artichokes:

You need to prep and then blanch (recipe follows) your Baby Artichokes in one sitting to keep them from discoloring. In a pinch you can store them peeled and ready for blanching in the fridge in some ice cold lemon water, but this will only slow the oxidation process, not prevent it. You’ll need a bowl of cold water large enough to hold them and a lemon, cut in half. Put half the lemon in the cold water; reserve the other half for rubbing on the artichokes. You’ll also want to bring your water for blanching to a boil while you work (see next recipe).

Baby Artichokes need to be trimmed. To start, use a paring knife to cut the top 25 % of the leaves right off, and discard them into your compost bin. They are too tough to eat and have a sharp barb at the end of them. Quickly slice the end of the stem off and discard it as well. Now peel off the outer leaves until you reach the pale yellow, tender leaves below. If you’re using larger artichokes, you’ll have to scoop out the fibrous, furry “choke,” which may cause, well, choking, as well.

Trim of the outer “skin” of the stem and the ragged base of the heart until all the hard dark green parts are gone, and you are left with only the tender yellow inner leaves and white heart and stem. Now rub all the cut parts with the half-lemon to keep them from discoloring. Store the prepped artichokes in the cold water while you prepare the remaining ones.

Blanching Baby Artichokes

12 baby artichokes, prepped as described above
1 lemon, halved
1 handful parsley stems
4 garlic cloves, crushed
6 quarts lightly salted water

1 large bowl of ice water

Add the lemon, parsley and garlic to a pot with the salted water and bring it all to a slow boil. Add the prepped artichokes and poach for 3-4 minutes, just until they begin to soften. If a fork or knife goes right through them without any give, they are overcooked! Immediately remove the artichokes to the ice water, discarding the lemons, garlic and parsley stems. Once the artichokes have cooled completely, drain them and dry them thoroughly.

They are now ready for marinating or for salads, or for use in any of the recipes that follow.

Baby Artichokes Stuffed with Pancetta and Reggiano Parmesan

Prep 9 Baby Artichokes as described above, and slice them in half the long way.

Stuffing:

6 Tbsp. best available Extra Virgin Olive Oil (plus extra}
4 oz. Pancetta (or slab bacon, Prosciutto or salt pork), diced
1shallot or a ¼ of a small onion, minced
4 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup dry white wine
2 ½ Cups fresh breadcrumbs (from Italian or French bread)
½ bunch chopped fresh Italian Parsley
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Romano, or Asiago cheese
Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the diced Pancetta in the olive oil until it’s crispy. Add shallot and garlic and toast lightly. Add wine and reduce until nearly dry. Add breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon zest and juice, and stir off heat until well combined, adding more olive oil as needed to keep the mixture a bit moist. Fold in cheese, salt and pepper.

Assembly:
Lay the Baby Artichokes out on a sheet pan and top with copious amounts of the stuffing. Drizzle with more oil and lemon juice, grate some more cheese over the top, and broil on low for 3-5 minutes until golden brown. You can also lay them out on a foil pan and finish them on a covered charcoal grill (indirect heat) for a super barbecue side dish.

Grilled Baby Artichokes with Lemon and Herbs

This is a very simple, but delicious, preparation for your next barbecue. Again, the recipe relies on the premise that you’ve prepped the Baby Artichokes as discussed above.

12 Baby Artichokes, prepped and halved

Marinade:

3 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
1 garlic clove, minced
1 pinch pure chili powder
Salt and pepper to taste

Lemon-Herb Citronette:

¼ Cup best quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 Tbsp lemon juice
½ bunch Italian parsley, chopped
1 Tbsp marjoram, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

Toss the prepped Baby Artichokes in the marinade, grill over wood and/or charcoal until lightly charred, and serve drizzled with the citronette.

Crispy Fried Baby Artichokes with Aioli

This is a great all around fry recipe. The batter is equally at home on chicken or your favorite white fish—be it cod, whiting or catfish—and with a few minor additions and subtractions, can be used with eggplant or even squash blossoms. I love it with the addition of some Cajun spice for soft shell crabs or fried shrimp.

Oh, and the aioli is equally as good on any of the aforementioned dishes as well.

Aioli

Okay, so you can add some olive oil, a squeeze of lemon, a few turns of black pepper and a heaping tablespoon of chopped garlic to your favorite brand of store-bought mayonnaise and call it aioli if you wish, or if you’re squeamish about the whole raw egg thing (which you should be if you use those mass-produced, thin-shelled eggs from the crates piled to the ceiling in your local grocery store. But if you have a really great olive oil in your pantry, and have access to farm fresh eggs that you trust not to turn you into a twisted wreck of a human water cannon for the next three days, and you also have a mortar and pestle (or a food processor), then you might, like me, want to try this at least once before you die.

1 pinch course gray sea salt
6-10 firm, crisp garlic cloves (no green sprouts!)
A large five-fingered pinch of fresh breadcrumbs
2 egg yolks
2 cups extra virgin olive oil
Juice from 1 lemon
Chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

In the mortar, work the salt, garlic and breadcrumbs into a smooth paste. Then work in the egg yolks. Slowly work in the oil, a little at a time. Adding too much too soon will break the mixture. So go slow. Once all the oil is in, taste the mixture and season with the lemon juice. Lastly, stir in the parsley.

Obviously, keep your aioli refrigerated if you’re not using it immediately, and don’t go making it a week before you intend to use it. You should really use it the same day you make it and discard it, though under the right circumstances (i.e., the temperature has been scrupulously maintained somewhere below 40 degrees Fahrenheit) it will last several days.

Mike’s All-Purpose Batter:

1 cup flour
2 eggs, separated
¼ cup lemon juice
1/3 cup sparkling water or club soda
1 Tbsp olive oil
Grated peel of 1 lemon
1 Tbsp chopped parsley

Combine flour, egg yolks, lemon juice, water, olive oil, lemon zest and parsley, and stir until it becomes a thick batter. You may have to add a little water. Cover and refrigerate for one hour, while you let the egg white stand at room temperature.

After an hour, beat the egg whites to stiff (but not dry) peeks and gently fold them into the batter. Your batter is now ready for use.

Putting it all together:

Using a cast iron pan is highly recommended for frying because cast iron maintains a consistent heat. Just be aware that it takes longer to heat up and also longer to cool down. You can use a candy thermometer if you like, and try to maintain the oil at 350-365 Fahrenheit. But I usually just eye it. Okay, not usually, always.

So you want about a half inch of oil coating the bottom of your pan and you want to bring it up to 350 or so. I usually use a combination of canola oil, which has a high smoke point, and extra virgin olive oil, which adds great flavor, but smokes at a very low temperature due to it being chock full of all those things that make it taste so good. The added canola oil will help keep the olive oil tame. Using straight extra virgin olive oil will result in a kitchen full of burnt oil stench. You can use peanut oil or grape seed oil, both of which have high smoking points and are great for frying. Grape seed oil is actually a favorite of mine for sautéing and frying, and, like olive oil, is loaded with antioxidants, but it tends toward the ludicrously expensive.

Anyway, add your prepped artichokes right to the bowl of batter (or dip one at a time if you must) and get them good and folded in. The mix should be fairly thick, but very light from the whipped egg whites. If your mix looks like bread dough, something went way, way wrong and I suggest you thin it out before proceeding. (It should still drip easily from a spoon).

Test the oil with a little dollop of the batter. The oil should bubble immediately, but not smoke, and no browning should be immediately evident at the edges. If the batter does brown quickly, the oil is too hot. Once you're satisfied, you can start frying your artichokes. One at a time, remove the artichokes from the batter with a fork and drop them into the oil. Add as many as you feel comfortable with without overcrowding them. After a minute or two, the bottom half of the artichokes should be nice and golden brown, and the batter will have puffed a bit. You can turn them and do the same to the other side.

Remove the finished artichokes with a slotted spatula (a fish spatula is irreplaceable for this) and place them on a clean dish towel to absorb any excess oil, before transferring them to the serving platter.

Serve the artichokes, sprinkled with chopped fresh parsley and adorned with lemon wheels, beside a mortar filled with fresh aioli.


Artichokes Au Gratin with Spinach, Sun-dried Tomatoes and Asiago Cheese

This is a great dip for grilled, garlic-rubbed slices of Italian or French bread (crostini). I guarantee you will not leave the party without writing this recipe down for someone. I urge you to lie, and keep this our little secret. This is actually a case where had you overcooked the artichokes when giving them their initial blanching, it wouldn’t have been such a bad thing.

12 baby artichokes, prepped and blanched as described above
2 bunches fresh spinach leaves, chopped and blanched for 2 minutes in boiling water, and drained well
1 pint of heavy cream
6 ounces sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
1 pound grated Asiago cheese
Salt and pepper
2 cups fresh breadcrumbs

Put the heavy cream and the sun-dried tomatoes in a sauce pot and bring the cream to a simmer. Make sure the pot is larger than you think you’ll need; cream has a tendency to boil up initially, and will no doubt ruin your day if it goes cascading down over your stove top. Trust me on this.

You want to reduce the cream about three quarters of the way, to a half-cup or so (make sure you are using heavy cream, light cream will break). So, while this is happening, hand-chop the artichokes and spinach on a cutting board (if you want a rustic, chunky final product), or, if you want the dip to be smooth, use a food processor to turn the two into a paste.

When the cream is ready, remove it from the heat and fold in all but a handful of the cheese. Add the artichoke and spinach mixture and blend it all together. The mix should be thick, but by no means dry. Nor should it be soupy. Runny is acceptable, but not soupy. It’s a dip, after all. Think dip. Taste the mixture and season it with salt and pepper as needed.

Spread the mixture into a baking pan, top with the breadcrumbs and reserved cheese. Bake, covered, 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 20-30 minutes or until bubbling hot, then remove the foil and let it brown nicely on top, 10 minutes more. (Of course, the times given assume you’ve baked the mixture immediately. If the mixture was left to cool, or was stored in the refrigerator for any length of time, it will affect the cooking time. But you knew that.)

Stand back when you unveil this one; there’s going to be a stampede.

I hope you enjoyed my first blog. Until next time, I leave you with the immortal words of Mark Twain, who is known to have said, “Sacred cows make the best hamburger.”